You can think of The Paris Letters as a series of essays, an ongoing conversation, a catalogue of ideas, and a repository of thoughts . . . in newsletter form. Published once a month on a Sunday, the letters range from personal stories to cultural critiques. If that sounds interesting to you, subscribe here si’l vous plaît and join the conversation. Some of my other writing from over the years below.
Bashir’s Car Is Not Shiny
Limitations on freedom of movement are extreme in a conflict zone. There is no such thing as a leisurely stroll in Kabul, and even quick jaunts to the supermarket or corner store are discouraged.
Walls of Separation and the Call to Prayer
In New York it was the sirens that nettled, piercing through triple-paned glass seventeen stories above the avenue at all hours of the day and night. In Kabul it’s the call to prayer that distracts, albeit less frequently, and which I wake to most mornings.
Rockets and Reckoning
Aside from a sleepy as-salaam alaikum, sob bakhair (greetings, good morning), “Could you lower that RPG” were the first words I spoke today. We were stopped at a checkpoint on the way to the gym when dozens of Toyota pickup trucks equipped with revolving machine guns roared into the main street.
A New Script
Last Friday, as we were driving through downtown Kabul, our car was stopped briefly as the traffic ahead slowed at the checkpoint. Looking out from my backseat window, I was struck by the lack of rhythm, the absence of a familiar flow of city movement.
On White City
It’s fighting season, I’ve been told, and this year is particularly bad because it’s the first season after the NATO drawdown and the Taliban is ready to prove a point. Their message is simple: We own this country and all foreigners should get lost.
Along the Banks of the Kabul River
She was a 27-year-old student of Islamic law and a devout Afghan Muslim. After praying at the Shah-e Du Shamshira mosque at the center of Kabul, Farkhunda Malikzada confronted the caretaker of the mosque about the practice of selling charms or tawiz, amulets containing Quranic verses and incantations.
To the Esteemed Ministry of Energy and Water!
Practicing law in Afghanistan is frustrating and difficult, and in my first two weeks I’ve found that a little humor goes a long way. I laugh at the little things, like the strange punctuation in memos addressed to government offices: "To Esteemed Ministry of Energy and Water!" and "To Respected Office of Bidding of Goods and Spare Parts!"
Warlords & Takeout
My first week in Kabul has been filled with takeout dinners at home, homemade English breakfast, all day brunches in private gardens, and bonfires at night. These are things you wouldn’t think possible in Afghanistan.
“Love words, agonize over sentences, and pay attention to the world.”
— Susan Sontag